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Practical Notes

Editor’s Picks

Recommendations

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PRACTICAL NOTES

  • Paris isn’t designed around children and doesn’t try to be. Its rhythm favors adult convenience: long lunches, narrow sidewalks, small elevators. But with flexibility and a bit of strategy, it can be one of the best cities to visit.

  • Service is never rushed. Waitstaff are salaried, not tip-reliant, so you're unlikely to be hurried along. This often works in your favor with children, though you shouldn't expect to be fussed over.

  • Always bring a carrier. Sidewalks are slim and uneven, métro elevators are rare, and some museums prohibit strollers.

  • Restaurant hours don’t always align with family schedules. Most kitchens close between lunch (around 2:30pm) and dinner (7:30 or 8pm). Bakeries, crêperies, and cafés bridge the gap — we've noted places with continuous service or earlier seatings.

  • Outdoor smoking is common on café terraces. Recent bans cover parks and areas near schools. Choose indoor seating or arrive early for tables away from the bar.

  • Always check hours beforehand. Restaurants, shops, and museums routinely close one or two days a week, and many shut entirely in August. Google hours can be wrong so check the venue's own website or call ahead.

  • The city rewards neighborhood clusters over cross-city ambition. Use the wander itineraries as your guide, and plan to spend a few hours in each arrondissement rather than crossing the city.

EDITOR’S PICKS

If you only have a day, a weekend, or a specific mood to match:

  • Morning: Jardin du Luxembourg

  • Afternoon: Place des Vosges + the Marais

  • Rainy day: La Maison des Histoires (Bastille location)

  • Design inspiration: Bourse de Commerce

  • To eat: Breizh Café

  • For a croissant: Mamiche

  • Sweet spot:  Bontemps for French patisserie, Glace Bachir for Lebanese ice cream

  • Culture: Institut du Monde Arabe + mint tea in the Grande Mosquée

  • Books: After 8 Books

  • To take home: Moulin Roty (for children) or G. Detou (for edible goods)

  • Beyond the city: Cité des Sciences + Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

RECOMMENDATIONS

  • Mini itineraries linking nearby highlights into walkable routes.

    • Seine Riverside (1st–7th Arr.): Start at Pont Neuf and follow the riverside paths downstream, pausing at Les Berges for coffee or playtime. End at Fluctuart, the world's first floating urban art center, with free exhibitions and rooftop views of the Seine. Sunday workshops for children.

    • Le Marais (3rd & 4th Arr.): Begin with pastries from Maison Aleph or Lebanese ice cream from Glace Bachir, wander the arcades of Place des Vosges, browse Merci or Le Petit Souk, and end with crêpes at Breizh Café or afternoon tea at Bontemps.

    • Jardin du Luxembourg & Latin Quarter (5th & 6th Arr.): Start at Jardin du Luxembourg for puppet shows and the sailboat pond — both especially good for toddlers. Walk to the Panthéon, then visit the Grande Mosquée de Paris for mint tea in the courtyard. End with Korean desserts at +82 Paris or a stroll through Jardin des Plantes' botanical gardens and natural history museums.

    • Canal Saint-Martin & Belleville (10th, 11th & 20th Arr.): Walk along Canal Saint-Martin's tree-lined banks, stop for coffee at Substance Café or pastries from Du Pain et des Idées, explore Belleville's street art and North African grocers, and end at Parc de Belleville for Paris's highest public viewpoint.

    • Bois de Boulogne & 16th Arrondissement (16th Arr.): Start at Fondation Louis Vuitton for Frank Gehry's architecture and rotating contemporary art exhibitions. Walk through the Bois de Boulogne to Jardin d'Acclimatation for vintage carousel rides and children's amusements, then browse children's boutiques like Atelier Choux or Bonpoint Vintage. End with ice cream at a café near the park.

    • Montmartre (18th Arr.): Start at Sacré-Cœur for sweeping city views, wander through Place du Tertre's artist studios, and refuel at Atelier P1 for pastries. The hidden square at Parc Marcel Bleustein Blanchet offers a quiet break from the crowds. Best tackled with a baby carrier.

    • La Villette & Northeast Paris (19th Arr.): Visit Cité des Sciences with its dedicated space for babies and toddlers, then explore La Villette Park's contemporary sculptures and the Philharmonie de Paris for weekend family concerts. Walk to Parc des Buttes-Chaumont for dramatic cliffs, a suspension bridge, and waterfall views.

  • 1st Arr.

    • Musée de l'Orangerie: Monet's Water Lilies in two oval rooms. The Family Area, open year-round on weekends, public holidays, and school vacations, is designed for children 0–12 and inspired by Monet's garden at Giverny. Free with museum admission; no reservation required.

    • Musée du Louvre: The Egyptian galleries and medieval foundations work best with young children. Arrive at opening, limit to 1–2 hours, use a carrier.

    3rd Arr.

    • 193 Gallery: Contemporary art from the Global South and African diaspora.

    • Musée Carnavalet: Paris history told through period rooms and revolutionary artifacts. Free admission.

    • Perrotin: Contemporary gallery featuring established and emerging international artists.

    4th Arr.

    • 59 Rivoli: Former artist squat turned legal studio complex with rotating exhibitions. Free admission.

    • Carpenters Workshop Gallery: Functional art by international designers working at the intersection of craft and sculpture.

    • Lafayette Anticipations: The Galeries Lafayette contemporary art foundation, with moveable floors, a production workshop in the basement, and a strong program of commissions and international exhibitions.

    • Mendes Wood DM: São Paulo gallery with a Paris outpost in a 17th-century hôtel particulier, known for Afro-Brazilian artists and works associated with self-taught and conceptual practices.

    5th Arr.

    • Institut du Monde Arabe: Arab world art and culture in a landmark building with a light-responsive mashrabiya façade. Rooftop terrace with panoramic views.

    7th Arr.

    • Bourse de Commerce: Contemporary art in a restored 18th-century commodities exchange.

    • Fluctuart: The world's first floating urban art center, anchored on the Seine. Free admission; Sunday workshops for children.

    • Musée d'Orsay: Impressionist masterpieces in a converted Beaux-Arts train station. More manageable than the Louvre. The café behind the giant clock has Seine views.

    • Musée Rodin: Sculpture garden with The Thinker and The Gates of Hell. Entirely stroller-friendly. From April through September, the Atelier Rodin opens in the grounds — a free hands-on space for children from 6 months through 12 years, with clay modeling, drawing, sensory play for babies, and a slide. No reservation required; the At The Lab activities are bookable online.

    • Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac: Indigenous art from Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas. Vertical gardens and free stroller rentals.

    8th Arr.

    • Grand Palais: Reopened landmark hosting major exhibitions beneath the largest glass roof in Europe. The Salon Seine, a free 900m² family space inside, offers creative games, interactive artworks, workshops, and a bookshop-boutique for young readers. Free baby carrier hire, nursery area, and changing tables throughout.

    • Musée Jacquemart-André: Gilded Age mansion preserved as the collectors left it. Tearoom in the former dining room.

    • Petit Palais: Fine arts museum with a garden café. Free permanent collection, stroller-friendly.

    10th Arr. 

    • Exo Exo: Artist-run gallery near République dedicated to emerging artists, with an emphasis on organic, encounter-driven programming.

    11th Arr.

    • AFIKARIS Gallery: Contemporary African art and diaspora voices.

    • Atelier des Lumières: Immersive digital art projected floor-to-ceiling. Strollers prohibited; baby carriers recommended.

    • Azzedine Alaïa Foundation: Fashion museum exploring Alaïa's sculptural approach to the body. Free admission, reservations required. Easy to visit in under an hour.

    • Galerie Patrick Seguin: Mid-century French design furniture and demountable architecture.

    14th Arr.

    • Fondation Cartier: Contemporary art in a Jean Nouvel glass building.

    16th Arr.

    • Fondation Louis Vuitton: Frank Gehry's glass building housing contemporary art. The architecture alone is worth the visit.

    • Galerie du 19M: Chanel's specialist artisans at work — embroiderers, feather workers, shoemakers. Free tours; advance reservations strongly recommended.

    • Le Corbusier Studio-Apartment: Le Corbusier's own apartment and studio, preserved almost exactly as he left it. Book in advance.

    • Palais de Tokyo: Vast contemporary art center with experimental exhibitions and late-night programming.

  • Museums & Attractions 

    5th Arr.

    • Galerie de l'Évolution (Grande Galerie de l'Évolution): Large-scale animals in a dramatic procession under a glass roof with light that shifts to mimic different times of day. Galerie des Enfants has hands-on exhibits for ages 6–12.

    8th Arr.

    • Grand Palais: Reopened landmark hosting major exhibitions. Le Palais des Enfants offers hands-on art workshops and interactive exhibits for children.

    19th Arr.

    • Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie: Europe's largest science museum with hands-on exhibits, a planetarium, and Cité des Bébés — a dedicated sensory space for children under 2.

    • Philharmonie de Paris: Weekend family concerts, music workshops for toddlers and young children, and a museum of musical instruments.

    Indoor Play Spaces

    6th Arr.

    • Entre 2 Siestes: Baby-focused play space for ages 0–3 with Montessori-inspired toys and sensory activities.

    • La Maison des Histoires Chantelivre: Immersive play museum bringing l'école des loisirs books to life, with storytelling performances and interactive play spaces. Open Tuesday to Sunday. Timed tickets required — book online.

    • Otipi Saint-Placide: Toy shop with café corner, play area, and workshop space in the basement.

    8th Arr.

    • Petit Forêt: Play café with full menu and weekly classes and special events.

    9th Arr.

    • April Café: Coffee shop near Canal Saint-Martin with upstairs play area, creative workshops, and weekend brunch.

    • Bambin Coffee Shop: Glassed-in playroom, full menu including weekend brunch, changing tables, and stroller storage.

    • Tribu Coffee Récréatif: Café, playroom for ages 0–6, and activity room. Breastfeeding-friendly with nursing areas.

    11th Arr.

    • La Maison des Histoires Bastille: The larger location — 12 immersive book worlds, a theater for storytelling performances, play areas, and café. Open Wednesday to Sunday. Timed tickets required — book online.

    • Octopia Kidz: Multi-level indoor playground with slides, climbing structures, trampolines, and a dedicated baby area.

    12th Arr.

    • Filou City: Large indoor play space with ball pits, climbing structures, slides, and a dedicated toddler area.

    16th & 17th Arr.

    • Playdate: Indoor play spaces for children under five with wooden structures, slides, ball pools, and sensory areas.

    18th Arr. 

    • Ernestine Café: Neighborhood café with glassed-in playroom overlooking the main room. Children's menu with adapted portions and regular workshops for young children.

    19th Arr. 

    • Pomme Maison de Famille: Family space with a 40m² private courtyard. Yoga and Pilates for expectant and new mothers, plus activities for children up to 8–9 years.

    Parks & Playgrounds

    1st Arr. 

    • Jardin des Tuileries: Formal gardens between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde with trampolines, a playground, and carousel. Flat and stroller-friendly throughout.

    • Jardin Nelson Mandela: Modern park near Les Halles with two separate play areas — ages 2–6 and ages 7–11 with trampolines, climbing structures, and ball courts.

    3rd & 4th Arr.

    • Place des Vosges: Paris's oldest square with arcades, formal symmetry, and a small playground. Ideal for picnics under the arcades.

    5th Arr.

    • Jardin des Plantes: Botanical gardens with natural history museums, an Alpine garden, rose garden, and small zoo. Entirely stroller-friendly.

    6th Arr.

    • Jardin du Luxembourg: Puppet theater, sailboat pond, multiple playgrounds, and pony rides. Playground requires paid entry.

    7th Arr.

    • Champ de Mars: Open lawns stretching from the Eiffel Tower to École Militaire. Playground and carousel at the tower's base.

    • Les Berges de Seine: Pedestrian riverside promenade with floating gardens, play areas, and café seating.

    8th Arr.

    • Parc Monceau: English-style park with Roman ruins, an Egyptian pyramid, footbridges, and playground. Less touristed than central parks.

    10th Arr. 

    • Canal Saint-Martin: Tree-lined canal with footbridges, locks, and waterside picnic spots. No playground, but excellent for stroller walks and people-watching.

    12th Arr.

    • Bois de Vincennes: Massive park with lakes, rowboat rentals, a Buddhist temple, château, and playgrounds. Parc Floral has extensive play structures and weekend puppet shows.

    • Promenade Plantée: Elevated park built on a former railway viaduct. Entirely stroller-friendly.

    14th Arr.

    • Parc Montsouris: English-style park with ponds, lawns, playgrounds, and fewer tourists. Guignol puppet theater performs weekend shows.

    16th Arr.

    • Bois de Boulogue: Massive park on Paris's western edge. Jardin d'Acclimatation is a century-old amusement park with rides, gardens, farm animals, and play structures. Separate admission required.

    18th Arr.

    • Parc Marcel Bleustein Blanchet: Small square tucked behind Sacré-Cœur with playground and shade.

    19th Arr.

    • La Villette Park: Contemporary park with themed gardens, Canal de l'Ourcq, outdoor screenings, and year-round cultural programming.

    • Parc des Buttes-Chaumont: Dramatic park with cliffs, suspension bridge, waterfall, and a temple on a rocky island. Some steep paths — carrier helpful.

    20th Arr.

    • Parc de Belleville: Hilltop park with Paris's highest accessible viewpoint, terraced gardens, and playground. Less manicured than central parks.

    Parent & Baby Classes

    7th Arr.

    • Bébé Music Box: Global music classes for infants and toddlers in English at the American Church in Paris. Semester-based; email ahead to ask about drop-in availability.

    10th Arr.

    • Casa Yoga: Postnatal "Maman et Bébé" yoga for recovery and bonding.

    12th Arr.

    • Maison-Né: Individual workshops for babies and parents, bookable by session.

  • Chosen for their food first. Space and welcome for families is the bonus.

    Various 

    • Breizh Café (2nd, 3rd, 6th, 10th, 11th, 16th, 17th, & 18th): Breton-style buckwheat galettes and sweet crêpes in a Japanese-influenced setting. Open all day; high chairs available.

    • Choukran (2nd & 9th): Modern Moroccan with technicolor zellige tiles and cult "bledwich" sandwiches.

    • Noura (2nd, 16th, 19th): Lebanese restaurant with mezze platters, grilled meats, and traditional specialties. Explicitly family-friendly; high chairs and changing table available.

    • Tanori (3rd, 11th): Japanese-Latin fusion street food — sushi tacos with eel, breaded shrimp, or tofu, and housemade passionfruit drinks. Open all day until late; good for takeaway.

    3rd Arr.

    • Les Enfants Rouges: Michelin-listed Franco-Japanese bistro in the Marais from chef Daï Shinozuka. Not an everyday restaurant, but one that welcomes children, with a kids' menu and a relaxed dining room. Open Friday to Monday; reservations essential.

    • Le Petit Dakar: Senegalese soul food — yassa chicken and mafé peanut stew with Wolof music. Open most days; check schedule before visiting.

    9th Arr.

    • Bouillon Chartier: Paris institution since 1896, serving classic French brasserie dishes in a vast Belle Époque dining room classified as a historic monument. Non-stop service from 11:30am to midnight. Come early to beat the queue.

    • Ismail: Indian-Lebanese fusion — mezze meets tandoori spice, halal-friendly. Dinner from 6:30pm; high chair available.

    • Mumbai Café (9th): Indian restaurant in a lively corridor near Faubourg Poissonnière. Open all day.

    • Pink Mamma: Vibrant four-story Italian restaurant with greenhouse rooftop and pizza oven visible from the dining room. Dinner from 6pm; reservations essential.

    10th Arr.

    • Bomaye Burger: African street food as gourmet burgers, mafé and yassa reimagined.

    • Urfa Durum: Kurdish institution since 1987. Watch flatbread rolled by hand then stuffed with wood-fired lamb. Open all day and into the night.

    11th Arr.

    • Maythai: Modern Thai with bold flavors and adjustable spice levels. Open all day on weekends; high chair available.

    13th Arr.

    • Lao Lane Xang 2: Family-run Laotian restaurant in the heart of Paris's Chinatown.

    18th Arr.

    • Hardware Société: Australian-French brunch café with inventive seasonal dishes and excellent coffee. No dinner service; arrive early on weekends.

    20th Arr.

    • Des Terres: Market-driven seasonal bistro in a residential neighborhood. Menu changes frequently based on what's available; open all day.

  • 1st Arr. 

    • Ritz Paris Le Comptoir Cambon: Named Best Patisserie in the World 2024 by La Liste. Pastry chef François Perret's signature: elongated croissants, melting-heart madeleines, original éclairs. Arrive early; expect a queue.

    3rd Arr.

    • Bontemps La Pâtisserie: Elegant tea salon known for sablés, financiers, and refined pastries.

    • Fragments: Minimalist café with excellent coffee and homemade pastries.

    • Glace Bachir: Lebanese-style ice cream rolled in crushed pistachios. Flavors include ashta (clotted cream), rose, and mastic gum.

    • Jacques Genin: Widely regarded as the finest chocolatier in Paris — the caramels and made-to-order millefeuille are the ones. Salon de thé for sit-down tastings. Closed Mondays.

    • Lâm. Saudi-founded bakery where French technique meets Middle Eastern flavor. Za'atar and feta swirl buns, tahini-chocolate loaf cake, pistachio-orange blossom tourte.

    • Petite Île Boulangerie: Taiwanese-French fusion pastries — matcha croissants, black sesame canelés, ube cream puffs.

    • Tanat: Specialty coffee roastery focused on high-quality single-origin beans. Minimalist design with limited seating.

    4th Arr.

    • Baltard Artisan Glacier: Ice cream with creative flavors and house-made cones, near Les Halles.

    • Joho: Minimalist coffee shop with specialty coffee, house-made matcha, and Japanese-influenced pastries.

    • Maison Aleph: Middle Eastern-inspired desserts — halva brownies, pistachio cakes, date financiers.

    • Minicafé Rue des Barres: Tiny espresso bar on one of the Marais's most beautiful medieval streets, steps from Saint-Gervais church. Excellent coffee and some of the best cookies in Paris. Mostly takeaway; a few outdoor seats.

    5th Arr.

    • +82 Paris: Korean pâtisserie serving bingsu (shaved ice desserts) and delicate layered cakes in flavors like black sesame and yuzu.

    6th Arr.

    • La Maison d'Isabelle: Traditional French bakery with exceptional croissants and pain au chocolat. Arrive early for best selection.

    9th Arr.

    • À la Mère de Famille: Paris's oldest chocolate shop, open since 1761. Belle époque tiles, candied clementines, and house-made chocolates. Also in the 6th and 7th.

    • Mamiche: Bakery known for inventive breads and pastries, especially the chocolate babka and vanilla choux.

    • Tilila: Moroccan-inspired café serving coffee and sweet and savory treats.

    10th Arr.

    • Boulangerie Utopie: Creative bakery known for sesame éclairs, seasonal fruit tarts, and inventive flavor combinations.

    • Du Pain et des Idées: Famous for escargot pastries coiled with chocolate or pistachio, and mini-pavés. Closed weekends.

    • Flâneur Coffee Club: Egyptian-founded café, gallery, and listening room near Canal Saint-Martin. Programming shifts week to week — check before you go.

    11th Arr.

    • % Arabica Oberkampf: Sleek Japanese café with minimalist design, excellent matcha, and a spacious interior.

    18th Arr.

    • Atelier P1: Organic bakery with exceptional sourdough and bread-making workshops.

    Multiple Locations

    • Café Kitsuné (1st, 3rd): Minimalist café known for matcha lattes and Japanese-inspired pastries.

    • Une Glace à Paris (4th, 18th): Inventive ice cream in flavors like fig-honey-walnut and white chocolate-yuzu.

    • Yann Couvreur (4th, 10th): Acclaimed pâtisserie known for architectural pastries and playful flavors.

  • 3rd Arr.

    • Ofr.: Independent bookstore and gallery specializing in art, design, photography, architecture, and fashion. Gallery space in the back hosts exhibitions and events.

    • Yvon Lambert: Gallery-bookshop with a deep selection of contemporary art books, limited editions, and multiples alongside exhibitions of established and emerging artists.

    5th Arr.

    • Librairie de l'Institut du Monde Arabe: Bookstore inside the Institut du Monde Arabe specializing in Arab and MENA literature, history, art, philosophy, and poetry. The children's section is one of the few places in Paris to find Arabic-language picture books and bilingual editions.

    6th Arr.

    • Chantelivre: Paris's oldest and largest children's bookstore, with French picture books, middle grade, and young adult literature. La Maison des Histoires is located inside.

    • Librairie des Femmes: One of the oldest feminist bookshops in the world, with an emphasis on women's writing across languages.

    10th Arr.

    • After 8 Books: Independent bookshop and publisher specializing in artists' books, monographs, poetry, and art criticism.

    • Artazart: Design bookstore on Canal Saint-Martin with an exceptional selection of photography, graphic design, illustration, and architecture titles.

    11th Arr.

    • L'Enfant Lyre: Neighborhood children's bookstore with selection organized by theme and age, from 0 to 15 years.

  • For Children

    6th Arr.

    • Le Petit Souk: Playful concept store for toys, books, and home décor with global influences and thoughtful curation.

    11th Arr.

    • Moulin Roty: French toy brand known for kaleidoscopes, illustrated tins, and linen soft toys with a storybook aesthetic. One of the great French children's gift shops.

    • Smallable: Expansive store for children's fashion, toys, books, and home décor.

    16th Arr.

    • Bonpoint Vintage: Pre-loved pieces from the iconic French children's label at more accessible prices. Stock changes frequently.

    • Puzzle Michèle Wilson: Art puzzles hand-cut from wood, reproducing works by Klimt, Matisse, Picasso, and others. Beautiful objects for children and adults.

    Gifts

    1st Arr. 

    • Memo Paris: Fragrance as travel memoir — each scent maps to a specific destination. Lalibela, Inlé Lake, Granada, Marfa.

    2nd Arr.

    • G. Detou: Professional baking supply shop selling specialty chocolate, vanilla, spices, and gourmet pantry staples. The best edible souvenirs in Paris.

    3rd Arr. 

    • Maison Sato: Japanese artisan tableware and decorative objects. 

    • Merci: Iconic three-floor concept store with home goods, fashion, books, flowers, and a dedicated children's section.

    5th Arr. 

    • Messy Nessy's Cabinet: Curated vintage shop and curiosity cabinet from the team behind Messy Nessy Chic, selling books, antiques, maps, travel accessories, and Parisian ephemera.

    6th Arr.

    • Astier de Villatte: Ceramics workshop and boutique creating hand-molded tableware with a deliberately imperfect aesthetic. Each piece is signed by its maker.

    9th Arr.

    • Empreintes: Design shop focused on French and European makers — ceramics, textiles, lighting, small furniture.

    11th Arr.

    • Landline General Store: Plastic-free general supply store with ethically produced homewares, table décor, cooking supplies, toys, and a carefully edited selection of clothing.

    • Lusa Luso: Portuguese crafts and homeware shop with handpainted ceramics, natural-fibre textiles, and objects made with small artisanal producers.

    Markets

    3rd Arr.

    • Marché des Enfants Rouges: Paris's oldest covered market, open since 1615 — Moroccan tagines, Japanese bento, Italian pasta, and organic produce. The name comes from a nearby orphanage whose children wore red coats. Go mid-morning to avoid the rush and be sure to check out the Japanese counter Les Enfants du Marché.

    11th Arr.

    • Marché d'Aligre: Outdoor stalls of produce, cheese, and flowers alongside a covered hall with butchers and fishmongers. The surrounding flea market has vintage clothing and housewares. Best on weekend mornings.

  • If your timing lines up, things worth adding to your plans.

    • Carnaval de Paris (February/March): One of the oldest carnivals in Europe — a free family parade through central Paris neighborhoods. Less touristed than it deserves to be.

    • Livre Paris (March): Annual book fair with author signings, children's programming, publisher booths, and literary events. Strong emphasis on Francophone literature.

    • Fête de la Musique (June 21): Annual music festival with free concerts on every corner, in every park, spilling out of every bar. Family-friendly performances throughout the day transition to late-night dancing.

    • Paris Plages (July–August): The Seine riverbanks and Bassin de la Villette transform into temporary beaches with sand, palm trees, swimming pools, outdoor movies, and activities for children.

    • Bastille Day / Fête Nationale (July 14): Military parade down the Champs-Élysées in the morning, fireworks at the Eiffel Tower at night.

    • Journées du Patrimoine (Third weekend of September): Private and government buildings normally closed to the public — embassies, the Élysée Palace, private historic mansions — open their doors for free.

    • Nuit Blanche (Early October): All-night contemporary art festival with installations, performances, and exhibitions across the city. Some family-friendly programming in early evening.

    • Salon du Chocolat (Late October): Annual chocolate festival with tastings, demonstrations, and workshops. Worth the trek to Porte de Versailles, especially with children.

    • Paris Photo (November, Grand Palais): The world's largest photography art fair, drawing galleries and collectors from across the globe.

    • Christmas Markets (Late November–December): Seasonal markets selling handmade gifts, ornaments, mulled wine, and roasted chestnuts. Major markets at Champs-Élysées, Tuileries, La Défense, and Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

    • Patinoire at Hôtel de Ville (December–February): Free outdoor ice skating in front of Paris's City Hall. The building is fully illuminated at night.

  • For when you have a babysitter. Our top three picks, no more.

    3rd Arr.

    • Substance Café: Reservation-only coffee experience in a 16-seat bar. No takeaway, no sugar, no pastries, no music. Barista-roaster Joachim guides each visit through the origins and terroir of a single rotating coffee.

    9th Arr.

    • The Dissident Club: Bar run by a Pakistani journalist-in-exile with jazz, art, comedy, and poetry nights. Cocktails drawn from Pakistan's underground party scene. Check the schedule before you go.

    10th Arr.

    • Dirty Lemon: Queer-owned Palestinian cocktail bar near Canal Saint-Martin from chef Ruba Khoury, winner of Top Chef Middle East. Weekend brunch also popular: shakshuka, manakish, labneh. Book ahead.

 

STORIES FOR THE ROAD

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For children

  • Madeline by Ludwig Bemelmans (ages 3-8): A brave little girl at a Parisian boarding school visits the city's landmarks.

  • A Walk in Paris by Salvatore Rubbino (ages 4–8): A girl and her grandfather tour Paris together.

For parents

  • The Most Secret Memory of Men by Mohamed Mbougar Sarr: A Senegalese writer in Paris uncovers a literary mystery connecting Dakar and a forgotten masterpiece.

  • The Parisian by Isabella Hammad: A Palestinian family's story across Paris and the Middle East during the early 20th century.

  • A Country for Dying by Abdellah Taïa: A Moroccan writer navigates queer identity, migration, and belonging on the margins of Paris.

  • Scaffolding by Lauren Elkin: Two women in the same Parisian apartment across five decades navigate desire, fidelity, and identity.

  • Les Misérables (film) directed by Ladj Ly: Contemporary Montfermeil through the eyes of three anti-crime unit cops, echoing Victor Hugo's themes of justice and inequality.

Explore more of our reading lists on Bookshop.

 

These resources are updated periodically.

Have a suggestion? Let us know at hello@bychouette.com

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